Some More Thoughts on Suit Jackets as Sport Coats…
I’ve written before about choosing suiting fabric and suit details that can help the jacket and pants to be worn as separates. The suit from which this jacket comes is neither of those. It’s a Polo Ralph Lauren suit made in Italy by Corneliani, and is a very business-ey looking lightweight charcoal grey worsted wool with faintish orange windowpaning. It has a 3 roll 2.5 lapel, flapped straight pockets, double vents, and some light shoulder padding. In other words, it looks unmistakably like an orphaned suit jacket when worn without its matching pants.
Despite that fact, I do wear it on occasion as a sport coat because the pants are a little baggy for my tastes (despite having been tapered) and have double reverse pleats (hence the limited tapering possibilities). I’ve worn the jacket with chinos on several occasions and have always felt like it looked a bit off.
Yesterday, I thought I’d try it with some dark jeans. I was quite pleased with the results. Interestingly, toning down the formality of the bottom half of the outfit even more somehow made the jacket look less formal too, rather than highlight its clearly dressier nature. I also kept the rest of the look fairly casual with a crisp white OCBD and a lightweight merino wool v-neck sweater. I think the same jeans and jacket worn with a shirt and tie would have still looked a little too schizophrenic and unstudied. Instead, the more consciously casual combination gave the look a certain kind of intentionality, which I think can help in pulling off the orphaned suit jacket.